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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.